Posts Tagged ‘trans-siberian railway’
My favourite trains (so far)
I rarely remember my dreams. I have to wake up in the middle of them to remember what they were about, and quite often I’m so tired that by the time I can get my mental faculties together to try and remember the dream, I already forgot what it was. Which is probably good, since most of the dreams I remember make very little sense.
This morning’s dream was an exception. I was talking with someone I know (admittedly, can’t remember who it was) about trains. (Believe it or not, this is not an unknown conversation.) They asked me what my favourite train trips were, and I had said something like “whoa, that’s a tough one, let me think”. Then I started rhyming them off.
Oddly enough, that was about when I woke up … and I kept rhyming. So I figured, heck, that just sounds like a blog post!
Top 25 Trains
The Society of International Railway Travelers just released their list of the Top 25 Trains in the world.
I really gotta remember to join this group.
Riding the Trans Siberian in luxury
Not quite two years ago, I had the pleasure of riding trains from St. Petersburg, Russia all the way to Hong Kong. Quite the experience, let me tell you.
One part of it was riding the Trans Siberian Railway from Moscow to Ulan Ude, where the Trans Siberian effectively becomes the Trans Mongolian, as we cut through Mongolia to Beijing. The trains (as there are many that ply the line) vary from relatively nice (the one from Krasnoyarsk to Urkutsk was pretty nice) to pretty cruddy (Urkutsk to Ulan Ude), with various points in between.
Things seen along the way
As we”ve moved along over this journey, I”ve taken pictures of things for posting to the blog. Some of them didn”t make it, for one reason or another. But hating to waste good pictures, I thought I”d throw them into a blog posting for all to experience.
More Russian train stuff
Okay, quick update…So Continuously Welded Rail (CWR) doesn”t exist coast-to-coast. After we left Ekaterinburg, we went to jointed rail. CWR exists in patches along the line, but the most of it is the ol” clickety-clack variety.
Lots more freight trains, too.
Russian engines are huge, but have the wimpiest horns you ever heard! Sounds like those little steam whistles on old-fashioned popcorn makers.
The last Russian stop
We”re in Ulan Ude now, having arrived a bit later last night than scheduled. (Mind you, it took a half hour to walk from the train to the hotel.)
It”s a nice little city of about a half million … and no birch trees!!! Finally.
We”ll be here until early tomorrow morning, when we leave for Mongolia. I”m not particularly looking forward to such an early morning, I”ll tell you.
Slept mostly on the train, which was about the only way to pass through the pain. It”s a six and a half hour trip from Irkutsk to Ulan Ude, a distance of no more than 300 km (straight-line, that is). The train needs to take a few bendy twists going through the mountains, pass through a couple of tunnels, and then plods along at an agonizingly slow 50 km/h (estimated). I think we topped out at a few places around 80.
The eastern shore of Lake Baikal was frozen — ice as far as you could see. The exact opposite of what we”d seen in Listvyanka two days ago. It looks like it”s thawing quickly, though, so it shouldn”t be long before the clear waters show through.
Two of our housemates in Irkutsk (a pair of Aussies) told us two things: 1) that we”d love Mongolia (something we”d both strongly suspected), and 2) China would wear us down fast. It”s chaotic, the toilets are disaster areas (that actually scares us), the “queues” aren”t, and pretty much everything we”d wanted to see is buried under scaffolding. It seems everyone is upgrading this year.
We”re just waiting for our tour to start today — we actually got a guide for here — and will be back later with more. Stay tuned…
A little story about Ekaterinburg
Ekaterinburg (Soviet name, a much harsher “Sverdlovsk”) is a wonderful little place to spend an afternoon. Assuming you can find your hotel, that is.
After doing our little thing at the post office to try and catch up on postings, Amy and I did about the only thing we had time for: a walking tour. Fortunately, our Lonely Planet book on the Trans Siberian Railway has a walking tour laid out pretty well. It was just a matter for us to walk it.
Finding the Academy of Geology Hotel
When the Lonely Planet books fall a little short…So here”s the description of the Academy of Geology Hotel here in Ekaterinburg, as provided in the Lonely Planet Trans-Siberian Railway book:
Bldg 6, prosp Lenina 54
Singles/doubles with breakfast $26/30. This is the best budget option with smart, spacious rooms in a quite complex tucked away off the main road.
Yeah. So let me tell you how we found the place. First of all, we found Lenina Prospekt — that wasn”t hard. We walked all the way down to #54 (buildings aren”t individually numbered here, they go in groups). When you get into cases where buildings are in groups, they”re numbered something like 54/6 — such as the building holding our hotel.
Admittedly, I don”t know what exactly Amy was looking for, but I guess I expected something a little more … less apartment-y, which is what the 54 block looked like. We found 54/5, but couldn”t find 54/6. So we started walking around. A kind gentleman, about early 40s, asked us a question. We replied, sheepishly:
ya neh gavaroo pa-rooskie
Yeah, you guessed it: “I don”t speak Russian.”
This didn”t stop him, or us, and we proceeded to point, speak slowly (in both languages) until he dug out a map. Turns out that a building in the “courtyard” was the one we wanted. The side we could see was partly boarded up and covered in grafitti. We walked around to the other side and found the “Academy of Geology” sign, which we could barely read thanks to a Russian trend to use words similar to those in English, but with different spelling. The woman inside was totally unintelligable, and suggested (though her thick, steel bar window) that we should walk around the building. To the graffiti side, it seemed.
Luckily, a boy about 15 years old spoke up — speaking just enough English to understand that we couldn”t find the place. Back to the old woman. Conversation, back around to the side (west side, to be specific) of the building to a very unmarked and handle-less door. Pressing a little black buzzer above the door called the attendant, upon which we found out, that yes, this was the place.
For the record, the hotel is fairly nice, but certainly nothing special. So a word of warning to those of you looking for the hotel — it”s not clearly marked in the Lonely Planet books, and may require some assistance.
Russian trains
A few of you are probably wondering about the Russian train system. (Okay, I imagine not really wondering about the system, but about why I haven”t posted anything about it yet.)
I never really got an appreciation for the trains back in 1989, since we were let around by guides. Now that we don”t have the luxury of someone pointing things out, we”ve had to figure it out on our own. It”s not nearly as hard as it might sound, though.
Kazan kicked butt
Okay, a HUGE thumbs up to Kazan. Wow. Such an amazing little city. I”m sure Kazan itself is quite large, but the “main” area is surprisingly compact yet still very revealing. It is simply too bad that we were only there for the day — two days should be the required minimum for a stay there.
Archives by Month:
- August 2010
- July 2010
- June 2010
- May 2010
- April 2010
- March 2010
- February 2010
- January 2010
- December 2009
- November 2009
- October 2009
- September 2009
- August 2009
- July 2009
- June 2009
- May 2009
- April 2009
- March 2009
- February 2009
- January 2009
- December 2008
- November 2008
- October 2008
- September 2008
- August 2008
- July 2008
- June 2008
- May 2008
- April 2008
- March 2008
- February 2008
- January 2008
- December 2007
- November 2007
- October 2007
- September 2007
- August 2007
- July 2007
- June 2007
- May 2007
- April 2007
- March 2007
- February 2007
- January 2007
- December 2006
- November 2006
- October 2006
- September 2006
- August 2006
- July 2006
- June 2006
- May 2006
- April 2006
- March 2006
- February 2006
- January 2006
- December 2005
- November 2005
- July 2005
- June 2005
- May 2005
- April 2005
- March 2005
- February 2005
- January 2005
- December 2004
- November 2004
- October 2004
- September 2004
- August 2004
- July 2004
- June 2004
- May 2004
- April 2004
- March 2004
- February 2004
- January 2004
- December 2003
- November 2003
- October 2003
- September 2003
- August 2003
- July 2003
- June 2003
- May 2003
- April 2003
- March 2003
- February 2003
- January 2003
- December 2002
- November 2002
- October 2002
- September 2002
- August 2002
- July 2002
- June 2002
- May 2002
- April 2002
- March 2002
- February 2002
- January 2002
- December 2001
- November 2001
- October 2001
- September 2001
- August 2001
- July 2001
- June 2001
- May 2001
- April 2001
- March 2001
- February 2001
- January 2001
- December 2000
- November 2000
- October 2000
- September 2000
- August 2000
- July 2000
- June 2000
- May 2000
- April 2000
- March 2000
- February 2000
- January 2000
- December 1999
- November 1999
- October 1999
- September 1999
- August 1999
- July 1999
- June 1999
- May 1999
- April 1999
- March 1999
- February 1999
- January 1999
- October 1998
- September 1998
- August 1998
- July 1998
- June 1998
- May 1998
- April 1998
- March 1998
- February 1998
- January 1998
- May 1996
- April 1996
- April 1991
- July 1989
- June 1989









