Comments on: Laminate flooring sucks

By: JIMMY

JIMMY — Sun, 21 Feb 2010 19:03:56 +0000

I layed laminate click floating hardwood floor thru the entire house 850 sq ft. the only problem i am having is the last row will not stay in place. no matter what i do, it pops up. I am so frustrated with it. thought about nailing too, but the floor is concrete and nails wont stay down. Any suggestions would be great. other than the last row, I have no complaints, love the floor and how it looks.

By: Amanda

Amanda — Sat, 20 Feb 2010 10:23:31 +0000

I am so glad I’m not the only one. I hate the stuff. It shifted when we were laying it and there was nothing we could do about it. We had several people here with us when we were installing, and we couldn’t get enough weight on the plank to keep it from shifting when we were tapping. The boards wouldn’t lock from end to end on some boards. The manufacturer suggest we go back and tap them back in place and it will be fine, it shifted other boards when we were putting it together. Then they said after it’s laid if we tap it then it will fall right into place. We tried and it won’t budge. Now after the floor has been down 1 week we have some gaps(that are getting bigger), and some chips where the corners of the board are popping up. There’s also a few scratches on the surface of it from a chair, it’s not as durable as the companies say. Does anyone have any suggestions on how we can possibly keep it from chipping more, how to fill in the gaps, and keep the corners of the planks from buckling?

By: bob

bob — Fri, 12 Feb 2010 00:40:58 +0000

Roger, you say go to Sams Club for the laminate but don’t they carry different brands? If so what brand did you install?

By: Roger Reeves

Roger Reeves — Sat, 19 Dec 2009 17:35:54 +0000

GO TO SAM’S CLUB AND GET Lock’n Seal Laminate Flooring-Brazilian Cherry. I’m a pro and this floor is so easy to install a caveman can bucking do it. IT NEVER POPS OUT. It’s tongue and groove so you’ll need a hammer and a special tapping block. Don’t buy those little black tapping blocks. They suck. Mine is a white foot long tapping block. It looks like a 2′ x 4′ that’s hard plastic.

I wouldn’t lay the OP floor for $10,000. IF YOUR LAMINATE FLOOR EVER POPS OUT SAY ON ROW 2 PIECE 2 AND SO ON TAKE THAT *HIT BACK. I’ve installed several companies and Sam’s Lock’n Seal is the Cadillac and it looks great. IMO. Shaw is hard to lay too. What becomes a nightmare with the OP is not only after you start row 2 but going down tight halls and with the floor he had it want pop in without this special back tapping block thing.

By: priffer flooring

priffer flooring — Wed, 28 Oct 2009 22:28:29 +0000

Some laminates are just crap. I’ve been installing laminates from all comanies since they first came out. I am on a job right now that should have taken 4 or 5 hours. 9 hours later, we need to go back tomorrow and finish it. It is a thicker Tarkett laminate. It is the type that is supposed to be installed without the use of a tap block, but that is not possible. Tell me how I’m supposed to tilt my piece in at a 45 when it has to go under a door jamb or toe kick.
Like I said, I have a ridiculous amount of experience installing laminates and know all of the tricks (invented quite a few of them myself). Tarkett can be ok, but this particular product is complete crap and i will not be installing it again.
Mohawk is decent, Pergo has always been good. No substitue for hardwood.

By: Knox

Knox — Wed, 28 Oct 2009 19:29:17 +0000

Its your technique Dude!…..
Also it is a “floating” floor: visualize floor itself as single unit sitting on sub floor, wit edges “clamped” by moulding attached to the wall NOT the floor!!!

What works well: layout your base “row” (or partial row)along one wall; then start working out of one corner.

two poub hammer is very useful with the instalation kit tools for tight seams.

Lumberliqidators click & lock flooring very good product

By: Matt

Matt — Tue, 20 Oct 2009 13:18:41 +0000

I bought a Shaw laminate flooring with 1 20 year warranty and had it professionally insatlled. WIthin 6 months the seam started rising and got worse, in about 20 different spots. They sent an inspector who said it was due to excessive topical mositur I.E standing water!. We only used the Shaw brand cleaner once a month and drymopped the other times.

Even though the warranty states it is covered against normal moisture, they said they would only cover “manufacturing defects”. We should get a class action suit against these jerks!

By: Mark

Mark — Mon, 31 Aug 2009 20:38:28 +0000

And oh, 6 mil vapour barrier onto the concrete floor, all seams Tuck taped together and then foam underlay onto that for thermal barrier and stop the creaks.

By: Mark

Mark — Mon, 31 Aug 2009 20:32:47 +0000

I should be clear, the inspiration I got was from the Kaindl website, not my own conclusions, but it exactly addressed the frustrations I was having with rows two and three, which I had laid down, and placed a few inches away. That was wrong. See the installation video here: http://www.kaindl.com/consultation/installation.php?m=89. It is vendor specific of course, but the concept of the “lay it on the groove” is probably portable. That single trick made it a breeze. And tap with scrap.

By: Mark

Mark — Mon, 31 Aug 2009 20:23:58 +0000

I’ve installed many, many hardwood floors and am now installing my first laminate. The room is 38 feet long, and it’s going in a basement that has always been almost “dusty dry” for years, so am not concerned about dampness any more than a main floor. I snapped a chalk line down first, and set down wall spacers for the first row because no framed wall will fit a straight line over 38 feet. Yes row one was a breeze, and rows two and three were pop-out and re-do just like other posters mentioned. Then I got an inspiration: Lay the next row down onto, but not into, the tongue, and fit them end-to-end. Then, from one end, lift, press,
and close like a ZIPPER. Clean the next tongue of loose machined MDF bits as they prevent the next piece from fitting flush. Yes, the joints can be tapped. Take a piece of cut-off scrap, shave the lock off on the edge that would mate if it was a real piece, place it against the planks wherever you need, and softly tap the scrap with the side of your hammer. It will fit seamlessly and the planks will immediately fold flat. The tongue and grooves are more fragile than I would like, and there are lots of little bits of mdf left over from machining that thwart a perfect fit, so do a visual and clean before driving yourself nuts. And the REAL trick was to lay them ONTO the tongue as you fit. Don’t try to lift an entire row umpteen feet long all at once because it can’t be done without using up the entire quota of profanity for the job.

By: Geoff

Geoff — Sun, 30 Aug 2009 19:17:48 +0000

Hi Mike!

Don’t they say you should have the flooring open a few days before starting? I suppose if your basement is really humid, that could be a problem.

By: Mike Reynolds

Mike Reynolds — Thu, 27 Aug 2009 12:36:31 +0000

Addendum to my above comment: Maybe different manufacturers are different. Mine was from Home Depot. It’s “Faus” http://www.fausinc.com “Cosmopolitan” They don’t even recommend a tool of any sort. They say “snap” into place with your hands. Well mine are bruised and bloody and the floor still is not in. Even if I prevail I can see that there will be some small gaps here and there that I will have to fill in with caulk, I guess.

It has been very humid. Maybe that’s a problem. The flooring spent almost a week in the room unopened before I started the installation.

Be wary. It’s not nearly as easy as they say.

By: Mike Reynolds

Mike Reynolds — Thu, 27 Aug 2009 12:12:52 +0000

I too hate the stuff. I read about it, watched videos and talked to people at Home Depot about it before I got it. It didn’t help. When I start the second row I’m fine. Then when the second piece of the second row comes up it’s impossible. I can’t get it in without the first one coming out. I finally decided I’d have to live with a less than perfect seam for the second one and I moved on to the third one. THEN all three come loose. Over and over and over. I have banged up bloody knuckles, bruised knees and a sore back. AND I’m out over $300 for a floor I can’t use.

By: Greg

Greg — Tue, 25 Aug 2009 14:01:02 +0000

I put down 1000 sq. ft. of Cinque Terre Coastal Elm Tarkett laminate flooring and it was a pain in the butt to get started. after completing the task and enjoying the look. The floor started creaking no matter were you steped. The instructions was followed to the “T”. With that being said, I also installed 185 sq. ft. of Occasions Maple Tarkett and low and behold it DOES NOT creak at all and the boards are a lot narrower than the Coastal Elm. Tarkett Warranty Department will do nothing, according to the independent inspector. Is anyone else had this issue???

By: Cid

Cid — Mon, 24 Aug 2009 19:32:01 +0000

I’ve been trying to install some Swiftlock laminate flooring I bought from Lowes now for over a month. This stuff is very frustrating, I have no idea why they call it ‘Swiftlock’ because it certainly does not lock swiftly together. This crap does not want to go together for anything, and it doesn’t lock together as advertised, you have to sit there and force it together, while you can hear the press board tongue inside the groove ‘bending’ ….and don’t tell me I’m doing it wrong and thats why its not ’snapping’ together because I have fooled with this in every way imaginable to get this shit to go together like its advertised and it just WONT… three other people tried their luck and it does the same exact thing to them as well. DONT BUY SWIFTLOCK its CRAP! I wish I would’ve put down the frickin peel and stick stuff now since i wasted all my money on this worthless flooring!

By: Bill

Bill — Sun, 09 Aug 2009 13:46:55 +0000

About 6 years ago, I’ve installed 400 sq.ft. of laminates. The planks were using a solid core clicking system where the planks could be partially in and you could tap them horinzontally until they latch together.

This time, I’ve just bought Tarkett with a soft core where the tongue/groove feels like hard cardboard. I have not succeeded installing the 2nd row. You need to lift the whole row and then some planks unlatch. You cannot tap them horizontally.

By: Laminate Flooring Tips - Things You Should Know about Laminate Flooring

Laminate Flooring Tips - Things You Should Know about Laminate Flooring — Sat, 27 Jun 2009 16:05:48 +0000

[...] Laminate flooring sucks at Geoff Sowrey [...]

By: Geoff

Geoff — Fri, 26 Jun 2009 19:15:30 +0000

Hey Bernie,

My dad used real hardwood on our kitchen floor when I was a kid. It lasted 20 years without so much as looking a bit old. I totally understand why, now.

By: Bernie

Bernie — Thu, 25 Jun 2009 01:03:31 +0000

Well Geof, I’m exactly at where you were when you wrote your rant. By the way, thanks! I really needed a laugh after 2 days of frustration working with this crap. I’m a master carpenter and have never EVER encountered such a crap product. Thinking of returning the 40 +boxes I have left and start over with another floor covering.

By: Bryan

Bryan — Sat, 06 Jun 2009 21:39:16 +0000

Laminate flooring is the worst. I had professionals install mine and they did a fine job. But just 4 weeks into it, in 4 areas there was bubbling/warping at the seams. Just one month into it. I would not put this crap in my dog’s house.
Then there are those who say, just put rugs down. What are you supposed to do, lay a bunch of rugs down and say “I have a real pretty floor under here, you should see it some time.”
Do not waste your money. If you ever have a problem with one piece, damn near the whole thing has to come up, as if it were wood, you could replace just that one area or simply sand it down. Once again, stay clear of the crap!!!!