Da svidanya Rossiya

Well, we’ve reached the end of our time here in Russia. Tomorrow morning, early, we’re off to Mongolia. And a 10+ hour border-crossing, so we’re told. It’s simultaneously a horror story and a quest of patience, so it seems.

After we arrived last night, literally 10 minutes into being in our new hotel room, the phone rang. It was “Helga from St. Petersburg”. Being more than just a little out of it, I assumed Helga was our tour operator, and was arranging our tour for tomorrow. She said she would be in the hotel, and we could meet her in the “cafeteria” (more like a bar with food). This was great since she had our train tickets to Ulaan Baatar, and would give us the details for our tour to the Datsun — the Buddhist template near Ulan Ude.

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The last Russian stop

We”re in Ulan Ude now, having arrived a bit later last night than scheduled. (Mind you, it took a half hour to walk from the train to the hotel.)

It”s a nice little city of about a half million … and no birch trees!!! Finally.

We”ll be here until early tomorrow morning, when we leave for Mongolia. I”m not particularly looking forward to such an early morning, I”ll tell you.

Slept mostly on the train, which was about the only way to pass through the pain. It”s a six and a half hour trip from Irkutsk to Ulan Ude, a distance of no more than 300 km (straight-line, that is). The train needs to take a few bendy twists going through the mountains, pass through a couple of tunnels, and then plods along at an agonizingly slow 50 km/h (estimated). I think we topped out at a few places around 80.

The eastern shore of Lake Baikal was frozen — ice as far as you could see. The exact opposite of what we”d seen in Listvyanka two days ago. It looks like it”s thawing quickly, though, so it shouldn”t be long before the clear waters show through.

Two of our housemates in Irkutsk (a pair of Aussies) told us two things: 1) that we”d love Mongolia (something we”d both strongly suspected), and 2) China would wear us down fast. It”s chaotic, the toilets are disaster areas (that actually scares us), the “queues” aren”t, and pretty much everything we”d wanted to see is buried under scaffolding. It seems everyone is upgrading this year.

We”re just waiting for our tour to start today — we actually got a guide for here — and will be back later with more. Stay tuned…

Listvyanka and Lake Baikal

The cold seems to be slowly moving away. It hit me a little harder than it did Amy, so while she dealt mostly with the sniffles, I’ve been dealt the ol’ phlegm-attack. Mostly throat clearing, so it ain’t all nasty.

Until today, I had yet to cash any of my traveller’s cheques. Useful things these are not. Major problem: very few places in Russia care to honour them. You have search high and low to find places that will handle them, and not for an obscene rate of conversion. It’s silly, really. In future, I’m sticking to my usual system: bring a bank card. It’s accepted at most ATMs world-wide, though you do sometimes have to hunt for the right ones.

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Alive in Irkutsk

You know that feeling you get, when you’re finding yourself walking down a street in a dream, and you’re not sure if you know where you are, but you keep going anyway? That’s what Amy and I have been feeling like the last few hours. We’ve been speculating to guess why (I attributed part of it to being sick and drugged up on Contac-C; Amy’s blaming the fish she had for dinner last night), but we’re not entirely sure.

The Irkutsk railway station

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Cough

I’m sick. I caught Amy”s cold.

I hate being sick.

The only thing worse than being sick is being sick on a train. It ruins the experience.

Blech.

Sniff

Amy, communications superstar!

So, sitting in the only internet connection in all of Krasnoyarsk (or seemingly so), Amy dove into one of the sites she used extensively for planning this trip: poezda.net. There, she found that there was a train hitting Krasnoyarsk (roughly translated as “ass end of Russia”) in about an hour and a half from then, which could whisk us away from the cultural wasteland that is Krasnoyarsk.

(As a note, someone actually told us that Krasnoyarsk is the cultural centre of Siberia. This leads me to conclude that the person is lying or vastly misinformed, or Siberia has no culture whatsoever. Personally, I find the latter very hard to believe.)

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A (hopefully) brief stop in Krasnoyarsk

Krasnoyarsk.

I think it”s Russian for “ass end of the country”.

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The internyet

Okay, just a general bitch about Russia.

Where the hell are all the internet cafes?? Our guides are out of date — we accept that. But do we have to traipse around every city for an hour looking for the damn things?! I mean, really, people — Russia is not that backwards, is it? Even the post offices aren”t consistent. Some have internet, some have internyet.

I can”t wait to see how hard it is in China… (we”re only in Ulaan Baatar in Mongolia, and god help us there)

A little story about Ekaterinburg

Ekaterinburg (Soviet name, a much harsher “Sverdlovsk”) is a wonderful little place to spend an afternoon. Assuming you can find your hotel, that is.

After doing our little thing at the post office to try and catch up on postings, Amy and I did about the only thing we had time for: a walking tour. Fortunately, our Lonely Planet book on the Trans Siberian Railway has a walking tour laid out pretty well. It was just a matter for us to walk it.

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Half-way, sorta

We”re now halfway home.

Sort of.

Ekaterinburg is roughly halfway around the world from Calgary. (It”s also in Asia — we crossed the Europe/Asia divide sometime last night or early this moring.) This is as far as we”re going to get. Now, every step brings us closer to home.

Well, except for that right turn in China, anyway…